‘Dirty Dozen’ lists and ingredient-scanning apps – red flags or red herrings?

One of the major problems with blacklists and ingredient-scanning apps is that they confuse hazard with risk.

That means they ignore the fact that any ingredient can be hazardous in large doses or under specific conditions. That doesn’t mean it’s harmful at the levels found in cosmetics, personal care and household products. And these tools rarely account for factors like exposure level or how the product is used—all of which are crucial in determining real-world risk.

For example, a so-called ‘red flag’ ingredient might be entirely safe when mixed with other ingredients, or used at very low levels, or used in a rinse-off product.

For more on this, see Extra extra…Toxic chemicals found in!

Regulators are the experts in chemical assessment and risk evaluation—so if an ingredient is allowed in a product, it is there at levels that they consider safe for product users. Assuming of course that people use products as they are intended to be used and follow any applicable safety precautions. 

Ingredient apps and ‘dirty dozen’ lists promote a DIY approach to chemical safety. They oversimplify complex science into traffic-light systems or scores, giving consumers a false sense of fear (or security), without the scientific context or expertise needed to interpret the ratings correctly.

That isn’t empowerment, it’s confusion dressed up as clarity.

People can end up avoiding ingredients that are safe and important—like preservatives that stop bacteria from growing in products, or sunscreens that help prevent skin cancer. 

When we rely on red-flag apps or simplified ingredient blacklists, we risk ignoring something far more reliable: the expert-run safety systems that already exist here in Australia—and globally.

These systems use science to evaluate ingredients by assessing hazard, dose, exposure and long-term effects, in the context of how products are actually used.

So, true empowerment isn’t about scanning a barcode to ‘uncover hidden dangers’. It comes from knowing there’s a system in place—led by experts—to keep you safe. Trust in that system is the best way to help you make confident, informed choices.

For more detail on how Australia’s regulatory system keeps you safe, see Product safety – a common priority?