Secret fragrance ingredients?
What are they?
A fragrance ingredient is defined as ‘a substance used solely to impart an odour to a cosmetic product’.1 In other words, ingredients with a scent. Usually, fragranced products contain several fragrance ingredients that are blended together to produce a desired scent, but only as a small percentage (about 2%) of the product.
Many household products, as well as cosmetic and personal care products, contain fragrance ingredients. Scent can make products more pleasurable to use and enjoy, can enhance mood, and provide opportunities for personal expression.
What's the myth?
There have been suggestions that fragrance ingredients are not disclosed to the consumer. ‘Secret chemicals’, according to the US-based Environmental Working Group (EWG).2
‘The EWG can't tell a toxic chemical from a badminton shuttlecock’3
This myth was Number 9 in the 'Top Ten Unfounded Health Scares of 2012'4.
Implication? There must be something to hide. These fragrances must be unsafe.
Secret and unsafe? Read more to learn how both are untrue.
What are the facts?
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Fragrance ingredient labelling is governed by Australian labelling laws
All cosmetics and personal care products in Australia must list all intentionally added ingredients on the product label, in English. Unless this is not possible due to the product’s size, shape or nature, or the product is a free sample or tester.5 This is enforced by the Australian Competition & Consumer Commission (ACCC).
The presence of fragrance ingredients in any cosmetic or personal care product must be shown by including the word ‘fragrance’, ‘fragrances’, ‘parfum’ or ‘parfums’, or by listing all the ingredients in the fragrance or fragrances. There is no legal requirement that each individual component of a fragrance be listed on the product label.
In consumer products, such as household cleaners and laundry products, there is no legal requirement to label any product ingredients, unless labelling for a particular ingredient is specified in the Poisons Standard.
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Industry is embracing transparency
Far from being secretive, the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has published a list 3000 fragrance ingredients that are used in consumer products around the world. This is called the Transparency List.6 All ingredients on this list have passed the IFRA safety standards.
IFRA Transparency List: The ‘perfumer’s palette’
'It represents a snapshot in time of the ingredients currently used by the fragrance industry, specifically those present in active fragrance mixtures available on the global market. This includes ingredients used in minimal quantities or only in specific countries or regions.'7This is a great solution to providing consumers with the information they want whilst protecting details of specific fragrance formulae, which can take considerable time and financial investment to develop.
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Fragrance ingredients undergo risk-based safety assessment and are independently reviewed
The IFRA Safety Standards8, which underpin the Transparency List6, are a set of guidelines to ensure the safe use and quality of fragrance ingredients. They apply to fragrance ingredients used in all types of products, including fragrances (perfumes, colognes etc) and fragranced personal care and household products.
IFRA Standards can prohibit or restrict specific fragrance ingredients, or set purity requirements. The standards are based on scientific research and risk assessments. These are conducted by the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM), the international scientific authority for fragrance ingredient safety, and are verified by independent experts. The assessment considers possible effects on the skin, including skin irritation and sensitisation, the effect of sunlight on the ingredient, and toxicity to body systems.
The Expert Panel for Fragrance Safety is an independent and international group of dermatologists, pathologists, environmental scientists and toxicologists. It chooses its own members and reviews and must approve all RIFM assessments before they can be published.
When warranted by the data, the Expert Panel instructs IFRA to issue a Standard either restricting or banning a fragrance material.8 To date, over 250 substances have been banned or restricted.
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Some individuals can be sensitive to fragrance ingredients (and other substances)
Most people can use fragranced products without any problems. But some people can be sensitive (or allergic) to certain fragrance ingredients, whether in food, skin care, the environment or elsewhere. If you have a reaction to a particular fragranced product, stop using it. You may wish to seek the advice of your GP or contact the product manufacturer.
The bottom line?
The fragrance industry is committed to transparency and safety. Whilst all fragrance ingredients may not be listed on a product, all fragrances are assessed for safety and are listed on IFRA’s Transparency List.
No need to…
avoid fragranced products, but you may wish to if you are highly sensitive. This is similar to individuals who are sensitive to peanuts avoiding peanut-containing foods.
But please do...
stop using a product if you have an adverse reaction to it.
Sources
- Trade Practices (Consumer Product Information Standards) (Cosmetics) Regulations 1991 – Regulation 3
- Campaign for Safe Cosmetics and Environmental Working Group 2010, ‘Not so sexy: The health risks of secret chemicals in fragrance’
- Josh Bloom, American Council on Science & Health, Aug 27, 2021, Environmental Working Group Doesn't Want You to Rub a Peach on Your Face
- American Council of Science & Health, The Top 10 Unfounded Health Scares of 2012
- Trade Practices (Consumer Product Information Standards) (Cosmetics) Regulations 1991 – Regulation 5
- International Fragrance Association, Transparency List
- International Fragrance Association, About the IFRA Transparency List
- International Fragrance Association Standards, including prohibited and restricted substances